There is a reason only a few people drive their car into the city much less an RV.

If you have the luxury of staying a week or more then the convenience of having the RV may out weigh the inconvenience of having to stay so far away from the city.

We searched for a nice campground and finally found one, outside the city of course in Newburgh/New York City North.

This location is not to far from Orange County Choppers if you’re a fan.

The campground itself is large, has a nice swimming pool and a great little café.
They even cook up pancakes and coffee on the grill in the mornings.  Very friendly staff too, the campground offers a bus ride to the train station.
We tried that the first trip out, but waiting for the bus took longer than we cared to wait.
We wanted to get to New York City after all that’s why we came.

Luckily we had towed a car and could drive the car into the train station.

The car drive to the train station was a good 20 minutes and then the ride on the train was about an hour each way to get to the city.
The train was loud, not very busy the days we were there.
The directions were easy to follow and within a few minutes our son (14 at the time) was an expert train rider and ticket buyer.

Around the city we used the subway.  The subway was busy and not as user friendly with a lot of local New Yorkers in a hurry to get to their destination and the employees sick to death of tourist asking how to buy tickets and which ones they need.

We got to visit Grand Central Station.  Wow I could have spent an entire day there.  The fresh bread in the bakeries and the shopping was fabulous.  The hum of the hustle made it feel so electrifying. We also got off at stops in Harlem and the Bronx. It was like being right smack in the middle of an episode of Seinfeld or Law and Order.  We walked down Madison and 5^th Ave.

Our son got to see an entire different lifestyle than he had seen before and I believe it changed his expectations for his future.   We also gained a new respect for people and the value of diversity.

The hot dog and pretzel stands were just like we anticipated.

Everyone should travel to New York City at least once.  We walked Central Park, now THAT is a park.  We toured museums went to the top of the Empire State Building and walked until we couldn’t take another step.

We still believe the Empire Pizza we had was the best pizza ever.  I think  being on the streets of New York City added something special to the flavor.

We stopped for coffee across from The Trump Tower and talked about how fabulous it must be  to fly into the city, have a limo pick you up and drive you to the Towers.  I’m sure that’s a lifestyle we will never see, but I doubt if anyone in all of New York City was enjoying themselves more than we were at that moment.

We had tickets to New York Yankee Stadium to see the subway battle in the Bronx between the Yankees and the Mets.  We had been to Reds and Indians Games but this was Yankee Stadium.
So much EXCITEMENT filled the air we could barely contain ourselves.

Even though our seats were way up there the view was fantastic.
We stayed, like everyone, until the last out was made.

Then we headed for the thrill ride back on the subway after midnight.  It’s hard to try and pretend like you know what you are doing when you don’t. We took the subway from Yankee Stadium to Harlem and then walked a block to get to the train station.  We took the train back to our car.  I don’t think anyone slept that night.  The excitement of the game, the city and the transportation was more than any of us imagined it would be.

We have taken a few family vacations since the New York City Trip, but so far nothing has come close when it comes to the exhilaration we all experienced that year.

A family favorite RV get away for us is Lake Cumberland.

Lake Cumberland was created with the completion of Wolf Creek Dam in 1951.
The main lake is 101 miles long and over one mile across at its widest point with 1255 miles of shoreline.
Every year more campers and boaters seem to discover Lake Cumberland.

We camp at the General Burnside Island State Park and Resort in Burnside, Ky.
It’s a peaceful resort for campers, boaters, golfers and fishermen alike.
The campground features 94 sites with utility hookups, two central service buildings with showers and rest rooms, and a dump station.
They have a playground for the young and old alike, with a covered shelter to get out of the sun.
There is large swimming pool that gets quit busy on hot summer day.

The big attraction is the large beautiful lake.
The rocky banks on the lake tower above and on many occasions we have seen the mountain goats roaming around. The water is an emerald green color.

The lake is very deep, over 100 feet in many areas.
We have lost a couple of anchors because we didn’t have enough rope.

In many places the water is so clear you can see your toes while treading water.

The main creek arms are 10 to 15 miles long with numerous secondary and tertiary arms.
All the little arms that branch off the lake make it possible to find your own private cove to dock and swim.
There are several small water falls hidden in different coves.  Finding one is like finding your own hidden treasure.

The most well know falls is the 76 falls and there is always a large gathering of boaters there.
We always enjoy swimming under the ice cold falls and listening to the echo of the water crashing down while we stand behind the sheet of water.

If you don’t have your own water transportation no worries – they rent EVERYTHING you need to explore the lake.
Rental fishing boats, ski boats, pontoon boats, and houseboats are offered.

A six-lane launching ramp at Burnside Park resort provides you with the perfect access to a fun-filled day on the lake.

The lake offers several resorts. There are floating marinas like Conley Bottom Resort that offer sandwiches, cold drinks & ice cream snacks; some have air conditioning inside to cool off.

The Jamestown Marina Resort has a lot of activity, with a great  boardwalk for snacks, and a place to feed fish and turtles.  If you hit the right day there is often a para sail boater around.  If you have never tried para sailing I highly recommend it.

We like to walk the dock area and admire the many different boats.  They come in all shapes and sizes.  Some even large enough to live on.  Reading the names on the boats adds a little fun too.

I recommend everyone in the Midwest take at least one trip to Lake Cumberland.

If you are like us, one trip turned into more than 10.

Satellite television is a good choice for an RV.
Satellite service is very similar to a home system. The primary difference is in the antenna (dish). There are a variety of dishes available that will work. A basic “portable” dish provided by a service provider can work several ways. It can be attached to the RV with some type of a clamp or it can be mounted on a tripod. This type of dish must be manually aimed to find a satellite. There are many dishes made specifically for RV’s. There are manual crank up, electric pop up types, domed semi automatic, domed fully automatic, and domed fully automatic tracking dishes.

Wiring your RV is part of the satellite installation process. RG6 coaxial cable must be used. Most newer RV’s have RG6 already routed to the standard television antenna and many have a factory pre-wire installed for a satellite system. Older RV’s may have RG59 coaxial cable. This is an older style “smaller” coaxial cable that should not be used for satellite TV. Some satellite antennas use 12 volt DC wiring to run the electric motors. These 12 volt DC wires would need to be routed to the antenna. Routing wires can be difficult. Research the installation procedure prior to deciding on a system. Sometimes spending extra on the system will prevent a difficult or costly installation.

To make any satellite system work, you must have satellite service from a provider and a receiver with a valid card installed. RV’s are subject to special service rules. Some programs may not be available. To be certain you’ll be satisfied, I recommend getting the information on programming prior to deciding to purchase or install a system.

A manual crank up dish is mounted on the roof with a crank handle protruding through to the inside. The crank handle is used to raise and lower the dish and then rotate after the correct height is reached. They work similar to a standard crank up antenna. Sometimes finding the satellite with this type of dish can be difficult. There must be a clear view to the satellite. Trees can block the signal. It may be difficult to know whether the signal can get through or if it simply isn’t being aimed correctly. The same problem exists with using a portable dish.

An electric pop up dish uses an electric motor and a GPS to find a satellite. When parked and switched on, it will find the satellite and lock on. It is not enclosed and is subject to weather. One advantage to this type of antenna is a slightly larger dish than a domed dish.

A domed semi automatic dish uses an electric motor to move and rotate. The dome encloses the unit and protects the components from weather. There is a control to operate the antenna. The operator finds the coordinates for the satellite by looking at the zip code of their location. The coordinates can be input or the control can be put in to an automatic scan mode. This type of antenna works fairly well.

A domed fully automatic dish is similar to a semi automatic dish. The primary difference is a GPS unit. The GPS unit finds and locks on to the satellite automatically. This is easier then using a semi automatic antenna. It takes the “I’m not sure” factor out of finding a satellite.

A domed, tracking, fully automatic unit is the top of the line. These units will automatically find the satellite and move as you drive to keep the signal locked in. This makes watching TV while driving possible. Overhead obstructions such as bridges, tunnels, or trees may temporarily obstruct the signal.

There are a wide range of prices for antennas. They start at around $100 and can go as high as $3000.

My experience: I have tried many but not all of the satellite antenna brands. I have used all styles of satellite antennas. In my opinion, a basic portable dish will do the job. There are some issues with finding the satellite with any manual alignment dish. Tree interference tends to make the alignment even more difficult. You don’t know whether there is tree interference or another problem. Regardless of the cause, it is always the same result: no reception. Fully automatic antennas are very nice. I think the tracking dish is worth the extra money when buying a fully automatic. In my opinion, Trac Star makes the best satellite antenna. Out of the different brands I have sold and installed, the Trac Star is the only one that has worked every time without any problems. The Trac Star unit uses a very simple method for wiring. Their unit uses only an RG6 coaxial cable for the entire operation from the antenna to their inside unit. No other wires need to be run from the antenna to the inside. This means no drilling or trying to find a route for wires.  Their antennas track very well and they have good technical support with very knowledgeable people. Response from a phone call is quick, unlike any of the other satellite brands I have dealt with. The service and quality product is definitely worth the extra money.

If you are looking for a professional to install a TV Satellite system, please call Wilson RV at 888-800-7340

Here is a list of 11 important items and systems to inspect and test.

1.  Outside:  One of the biggest problems we see with RV’s is water leaks. Look at all caulking to be sure it is not cracked or missing. This includes caulking around windows, doors, all roof vents and seams. Even the smallest crack will allow water to intrude.

2. Tires: Visually inspect tires for sidewall cracks and cracks between treads. Any cracks should be considered a danger and tires should be replaced. Check tire pressure. Refer to the manufacturers recommended tire pressure. There should be a decal inside of a cabinet with recommended tire pressures.

3.  Cleaning Appliances: Remove the outside access covers for the water heater and refrigerator. Inspect the burner assembly for any foreign debris such as spider webs and nests. LIGHT air pressure from a compressor can be used to clean the burner area. Be sure not to blow high pressure up the refrigerator chimney. If in doubt, let a professional do it.

4.  Batteries:  (Safety glasses and latex gloves on. Shore power disconnected. All items in RV off or main cut off in off position.)   Check and clean corroded terminals, connections, and battery trays. Hot water and baking soda work well. Check battery fluid levels if possible. (Some battery caps are not removable) In many cases, you will need to pull batteries out or even remove them to check the fluid level. Be careful with wiring if removing. Many times positive and negative wires are not marked or color coded. Take the time to mark each and every wire. I use masking tape and a sharpie. I also draw a picture of exactly how each battery is installed. I cannot tell you how many times I have had to straighten out someone’s mess from improper battery connections. (usually causes catastrophic component failure) It is important to check batteries for fluid.  Many times the RV has been connected to shore power for extended amounts of time. This can cause the batteries to overheat and boil the fluid out. Top fluid levels off with distilled water. Be careful not to overfill. Keep the level below the upper case fill ring.

This is a good time to test the batteries. You will need to have a professional perform a load test. Be sure the batteries are fully charged before the test. Low charge will cause a battery to fail the load test. Many times the person testing the battery does not check the state of charge. This is improper. If they don’t check the state of charge, go elsewhere. They may just be trying to sell you new batteries.

When replacing batteries, always replace multiple battery banks together. Don’t add an old battery to a new battery. (Coach Batteries and chassis batteries are banked separate)

5.  L.P.:   Be sure all L.P. items are turned off first. No smoking, flames, or sparks! Turn the leak detector inside the RV on FIRST. Open the valve on the tank all the way. Smell around the area for leaks. A soapy water solution can be used to check for leaks around the valve and regulator. I use a combination of an electronic leak detector and soapy water in a spray bottle. If you suspect a leak, turn the L.P. valve off immediately. Have a professional inspect and repair the leak. (Some times seals dry out over the winter causing new leaks that weren’t there before storage)

6. Water:  Before filling with water, check the hot water heater bypass valve. It needs to be in the “normal” position and all faucets need to be closed. It’s best to do the initial season fill with the “city water” connection. This will use the faucets water pressure to fill the empty lines and water heater. (It can also be done with the fresh water tank and pump)  Open a hot and cold water faucet during filling to let the air escape until the water flows steady. Inspect faucets for leaks. Inspect the water heater over pressure safety valve for leaks. Inspect the water heater drain plug outside the RV for leaks. After the water runs steady, turn off the city water. Add fresh water to the onboard tank. Relieve the line pressure by opening a hot and cold faucet until water flow stops. Close the faucets. Switch the fresh water pump on. After the pump stops running, allow about 20-30 minutes to hear if the pump cycles on again. (The pump cycling on indicates a pressure drop or leak). If the pump does not cycle on, the system should be ready to use. Run enough water through each faucet to be sure all RV antifreeze is removed. If the unit was winterized properly, there shouldn’t be much in it.

7. Test fire appliances: Once the L.P. and water systems are up and running, it is time to test fire appliances. For the first use of the season, start by lighting a stove top burner. Be certain the L.P. gas leak detector is on. Lighting a stove top burner will fill the L.P. lines. This is the easiest flame to see, so you will know when it ignites and the air in the lines is purged. Next you can light the other L.P. fired items. Be certain the water heater is full before igniting.

8. Generator:  Gasoline and L.P. powered generators are very similar. Typically, lack of fuel will make them hard starting after sitting for an extended time. Some newer generators have a “prime” function to run the fuel pump prior to starting. Late model Onan Microquiet and Microlite generators have this feature built in to the start switch, but in some cases are not marked. To operate the prime feature, simply hold the start/stop switch in the stop position. After a few seconds the light in the switch will illuminate indicating fuel pump operation. Run the pump for about 20 seconds to deliver fuel to the carburetor. The generator will start much quicker. If your generator does not have a prime feature, you will have to crank it until it starts. Let the starter rest to cool after about 15 seconds of cranking. Cycle the starter until it runs. Let it run for a short while, then check the oil level. Check the air filter to be certain there are no nests from storage.

9. Dump Hoses: Inspect your sewage dump hose. Dump hoses have a limited lifespan. Be certain the hose is in good condition with no tears or holes prior to use.

10. Waste tank valves: While connected to a dump station, carefully operate the waste tank valves the first time of the season. Valve seals can dry out causing them to stick and make the valves hard to operate. Carefully working the handle in and out in short increments may save replacing the valves. There are additives for valve lubrication that can be added to the tanks.

11. Awnings: Simply operate awnings and inspect fabric. If the effort to extend is difficult, the spring tension may need adjusted. (Take to a professional) Spring adjustment is very dangerous. I have the scars to prove it.

That’s the basics. Clean it up and have fun.

Bring back photos your friends will beg to see.  Wouldn’t You Rather Wow! Them, Than Bore Them, With the Photos From Your Next Trip?

Your Advance Plan

Make sure your digital camera is in good working order before you go, and keep it in a water-and- shock-resistant case. Bring two sets of rechargeable batteries and don’t forget the charger and relevant cords, or if you’re packing light, a couple sets of high powered disposables.

You can never have too much memory. Packing an extra memory card is wise, as there is nothing worse than running out of room for pictures halfway down the Grand Canyon. Having a backup card also allows you to protect the spectacular, once-in-a-life-time shots from damage until you can get them transferred to permanent storage.

It may be tempting to lower the resolution so you can store more pictures, but you will regret this later as it may result in poorer quality prints, or you will be limited to smaller size prints. Set your camera at its highest quality JPEG setting and get more memory if you have to. You will appreciate this when you’re viewing and printing your photos after your trip.

Shoot, Shoot, and Shoot Some More

With a digital camera you can always erase the photos you don’t want. Take pictures of anything you find interesting and try to focus on some of the details such as: an attractive doorway or a colorful market, not just panoramic scenes or major landmarks.

Let your pictures tell a story by creating a visual diary of your trip. Include street scenes, interesting signs, people you see along the way. For variety take both vertical and horizontal pictures.

Get Personal

When taking people shots, don’t make the mistake of standing too far away. You want to be able to recognize the people in your photos. Get close enough so you can see the expressions on your subjects faces. Zoom in on individuals or capture them from the waist up. Pictures are often more interesting when you can catch people at candid, un-posed moments.

In posed photos, try to incorporate some of the background into your shot. Try snapping from interesting angles rather than simply head-on. Remember the Rule-of-thirds and position the most important subject at an intersection of two lines or Power Point.

Outdoors or In, Get the Right Light

When photographing in bright sunlight, setting your camera’s fill or forced flash is very helpful, particularly when photographing people.

Brilliant sunlight often makes people’s faces look harsh, casting dark shadows under the eyes and accentuating wrinkles. The daytime fill-in flash will soften the lighting and make the images more flattering. Your family and friends in the photos will thank you!

Make it Last All Year

When you get home you can edit, crop and enhance your favorites using the photo editing software that came with your camera or a more advanced software like Foto Finish or Photoshop Elements. Consider adding drama to your images by turning some of your color photos into black and white or sepia tones and then upload all your images to an online photo printing service like Ofoto or Shutterfly for fast and convenient prints. Get more information on these and other services at: http://www.takebetterdigitalphotos.com/

You can take your best snaps and use your photo editing software to create a photo calendar or make photo cards for personal notes, or to email your favorites to family and friends.

Most of all, have fun with your camera this summer or whenever you get the chance to vacation!

You can take your best snaps and use your photo editing software to create a photo calendar or make photo cards for personal notes, or to email your favorites to family and friends.

Most of all, have fun with your camera this summer or whenever you get the chance to vacation!

About the Author

The Editors at http://www.TakeBetterDigitalPhotos.com are committed to bringing you the most useful information about the rapidly evolving field of digital photography from a hobbyist perspective. Visit the Quick Tips page at http://TAKEBETTERDIGITALPHOTOS.COM/Quick_Tips.html for techniques you can use at your next event or photo opportunity.

For years curiosity has kept me searching for the most economical way to drive. I have found that a variety of driving techniques work depending on the variables in vehicles. Obviously driving an RV differs from driving a car. RV’s take much longer to accelerate up to speed than cars. The power to weight ratio is the key factor. While RV’s typically have larger engines and more power than cars, the amount of horsepower to weight is much lower.

The key to obtaining maximum fuel economy is to keep the engine load as low as possible. There is a “sweet spot” or balance in every vehicles engine load to speed ratio. Contributing factors include: engine size, horsepower, torque, gear ratio, rolling resistance, and weight. Many newer automobiles have some type of an electronic fuel economy gauge in them. These units are very helpful in learning how to drive for fuel economy. In my opinion, one of the most incorrect pieces of information regarding fuel economy is in driving habits. I have heard many times “experts” advise slow starts and slow speeds are the best method of saving fuel. I disagree in most cases.
One of the misconceptions about economical driving pertains to fast or “jack rabbit” starts. Fuel economy numbers are directly related to engine load. Engine load is at or near its maximum during acceleration. While accelerating, the fuel economy is very low. Slow acceleration increase fuel economy very little if any. The difference between slow steady acceleration and fast acceleration in fuel economy numbers is very little. Once the vehicle is up to speed and cruising, the engine load is reduced and fuel economy numbers go up. In a set distance, the less accelerating and more light throttle cruising you do, the better the fuel economy. Get up to speed in as short a distance as possible. Yes, I’m telling you that quick “jack rabbit” starts are more economical. During a slow acceleration, fuel economy is very low all the way until the target speed is reached.

A we all know, stop and go driving reduces fuel economy. Any time a vehicle is sitting still, the fuel economy is 0 and as I just explained, during acceleration fuel economy is very low. Coasting with the throttle closed produces maximum fuel economy. There is a balance somewhere between accelerating and coasting. This balance is achieved when light throttle will maintain speed without accelerating.

Speed is one of the keys to achieving maximum fuel economy. Slow speed is not necessarily the best way to do it. Slows speeds in a high gear with high engine load is a recipe for poor fuel economy. The gear ratio and engine load are important factors in fuel economy. Maintaining the speed limit should be the goal in an RV. Getting your vehicle up to the speed limit and in its top gear in a short distance is important. Speed variations will occur on hills. Don’t try to maintain the speed limit on hills if wide open throttle must be used to do it.

Remember, using the least amount of fuel in a given distance is the goal. Using the top gear with light throttle will achieve the goal. Drive at constant steady speeds. Try to limit stop and go driving. Turn the engine off when not driving. Experiment with different fuel grades. Your vehicle constantly adjusts air/fuel mixture and ignition timing. Fuel octane grades act differently in some vehicles. Performance and fuel economy may be affected. It may be worth the extra cost for a higher grade. Be certain your engines air filter is clean and tires are at maximum recommended pressure. Be scientific when checking fuel economy. Fill the tank to the same level each time. The most accurate method for an accurate fuel economy test is to average every tank. Simply reset your trip meter at every fill up. Fill the tank each time and average all the numbers. You will have an accurate assessment of your vehicles fuel economy.

There are procedures that should be followed to use the holding tanks properly.

Gray tanks simply hold waste water. Any water going down a drain will end up in a gray tank. In some RV’s there are more than 1 gray tank.
Many type “C’ RV’s have tanks mounted under the RV on each side of the chassis frame. Typically there is 1 “black” and 2 “gray” tanks. The easiest way to know if the tank is “gray” or “black” is to look at the waste valves. The waste valves are located near the holding tank exit where the sewer hose is attached. The “gray” valve is the smaller valve (typically 1.5 inches). The “black” valve is the large valve (typically 3 inches). There should be 1 waste valve for each tank.
All the pipes connect together after the waste valves to exit at 1 location.

Since “gray” tanks hold all waste water, you need to be careful what you put down the drain. Often times, food or other large items that can go down a drain will end up in the “gray” tank, but may not come out. Any item that sinks in water will go to the bottom of the tank.
If the RV is sitting still for long, the items may not come out when the tanks are dumped. Any items that remain in the tank may cause odor or can interfere with the waste valve operation.

It is important to always have water in the tank before dumping. I recommend not leaving the “gray” waste valve open while camping. A build up of water in the tank will help flush all items out when dumping. Let the water level build before dumping. This is especially important with “black” tanks. Do not leave the “black” waste valve open while camping. Solids will be at the bottom of the tank. Water build up will help remove the solids from the tank when dumped.

Dumping the tanks should be done in the proper sequence. Be certain your waste hose is in good condition. Waste hoses tend to degrade over time. Inspect the hose prior to use. If it has cracks, tears, or holes, replace it. The waste tank exit is always on the RV’s left side (driver’s side).
To dump, you will need to position the RV close to the in ground dump station pipe. The waste exit for the RV will be low. It may be in a compartment or under the side below a compartment. The exit will be a black plastic (ABS) pipe. It should have a termination cap on it.
I recommend latex gloves on prior to dumping. The cap will twist counter clockwise for removal. The waste hose will have an attaching ring on one end. Insert the end without the attaching ring in the dump tube in the ground first. Be certain to hold the hose since some dump pipes go straight down and the hose may be lost if not held. Next hold the waste hose end with the attaching ring under the termination cap while removing the cap carefully. This allows the hose to catch any residual water from the previous dump. Holding the hose under the cap while removing is also helpful in the event of a leaking waste valve.
Occasionally waste valves get objects caught in them, or simply fail and leak. Holding the waste hose under the cap during removal will help avoid a messy spill.

Next attach the waste hose to the RV, turning the attaching ring clockwise until locked on. Once the hose is attached to the RV and inserted in the dump tube, it is time to dump. Proper sequence is to dump the sewage first. Open only the “black” tank waste valve. Allow a few minutes for the tank to empty. Go inside the RV and flush the toilet. Allow some water to run down the toilet to help flush the tank.
If time permits, I recommend filling the toilet bowl with water then flushing several times. Next, with the sewage drain valve still open, drain the “gray” water tanks. The “gray” water exiting will help wash out the “black” tank and plumbing. When the tanks finish (you can tell by sound) close all waste valves. There will be some plumbing with water dripping out after the waste valves. Allow some time if possible for all water to finish running out before removing the hose.

Next detach the drain hose from the RV. Wash the hose with fresh water while still inserted in the dump tube. Store the hose and attach the termination cap.
RV Help Desk Tips for holding tank use:
Occasionally wash the black tank with a toilet wand after dumping.
This is done by inserting an RV toilet wand attached to a water hose down through the toilet. Be certain the wand is below the toilet exit and in the holding tank. Wear a dust mask and latex gloves (there may be splash back).
Turn the water on. A high pressure water jet will wash the tank. I wash the black tanks on every rental unit we own, every time they are returned. This keeps the tanks clean and odor free.

Another tank cleaning method is to fill the “black” tank with water, then drive the RV several miles before dumping. The movement of water while driving may help clean the tank.

Come to Florida’s Central Gulf Coast if you are looking for a sun-filled vacation that involves plenty of water and numerous activities. This area of Florida is located along the Gulf of Mexico, providing easy access to any individual who wants to fill their time with water sports and adventure. If you prefer the land, there are numerous attractions to meet your needs in addition to the gorgeous beaches that border the coastline. For everything you are looking for in a Florida vacation, visit the cities of the Florida Gulf Coast and you will not be disappointed.

Clearwater is an amazing vacation destination if you are looking for outdoor activities that will test your strength and abilities. Fishing is popular with visitors since the Gulf is home to more than 300 varieties of fish, such as snapper, king-fish, mackerel, tarpon, red fish, and sailfish. If you prefer to head out to sea rather than fish off the pier, you are likely to find a charter that can accommodate your needs since the Clearwater Marina is home to the largest fishing fleet on the Gulf Coast. For a personal adventure, find a captain who can take you to a private island where you can snorkel or collect shells. No matter what water activity you plan to partake in, Clearwater is sure to be an accommodating host.

If you prefer to spend your vacation all over the city, head to St. Petersburg for pristine beaches, water activities, and land sports that will leave you breathless. St. Petersburg and the barrier island of St. Pete Beach are known for their long, sparkling white sand beaches that glow under the sun. Spend your day relaxing to the sound of the waves, or get out in the water and go snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, or jet skiing. If you are looking for exercise on land, seek out one of the numerous tennis courses or hit the championship links at the Mangrove Bay golf course.

Madeira Beach is the perfect destination if you are looking for a low key beach experience combined with a gorgeous sunset. The area is quaint, it is located near an old fishing village, yet you can still find all the beach activities you could desire. There are deep sea fishing boats, dolphin-watching cruises, and entertainment boats that leave from this area, so be sure not to miss out on all the fun. If you are walking along the beach, however, be careful since there is a large quantity of sea shells.

Tampa Florida is a great destination if you need an action-packed, rather than the sit by the water, vacation. The biggest draw in this city is Busch Gardens, an entertainment park that combines the intrigue of a zoo with the thrill of roller coasters. For a more informative attraction, head to the Florida Aquarium. Here you can catch sight of sharks, stingrays, and schools of fish that are native to the state or participate in the Dive with the Sharks program. After the museums have closed, head to historic Ybor City to experience the center of Tampa’s lively nightlife. This area has been rehabilitated and turned into a National Historic Landmark District, contributing to the recovery of Tampa’s tourism.

With the multitude and diversity of cities along Florida’s Central Gulf Coast, it can be difficult to determine where you want to stay. However, since each location is supremely unique from the others, deciding what you want to do during your vacation will make your decision an easy one. After you determine what you want out of your trip, look into lodging that accommodates your desires. A Central Gulf vacation rental can put the water in your backyard or situate you in the middle of the city you decide to visit. Whatever you are looking for, there is a Florida Central Gulf Coast vacation rental that will meet all of your needs. Visit GreatRentals.com to find the Tampa, St. Petersburg, or Clearwater vacation rental that puts all the action you are looking for within reach.

About the Author

HomeAway.com has the most comprehensive selection of vacation rental homes on the Internet. For an alternative lodging option, look into a Central Gulf Condo for your next trip to Florida.

The batteries in your RV are the “heart” of the electrical system. Good batteries with the proper charge are important for many reasons. There are a variety of items that depend on battery power to function.

In an RV, the batteries power basic items such as lights and water pumps.

Batteries also power many items you may not think of, such as the electronic igniter for the water heater, roof vent electric fans, the antenna booster for the TV, the L.P. gas valve for the refrigerator, the L.P. gas leak detector, the furnace blower, and an inverter if you have one.

It is important that battery charge level be maintained for proper operation of items. When the charge level gets low, available voltage may not be enough for electronic items to operate correctly. Some items, such as the furnace blower will simply slow or stop. Other items, such as the refrigerator may act erratic, stop operation, or even damage the electronic circuit board.

Proper battery maintenance is essential. Battery electrolyte level should be checked at regular intervals. I recommend checking the level when the oil change is performed. In addition, electrolyte level should also be checked when the RV is connected to shore power for extended periods. Most built in RV chargers operate continuous. This may overcharge the batteries. Overcharging can cause the electrolyte to overheat and in some cases boil. This will cause the electrolyte level to drop. Low electrolyte or complete loss of electrolyte can cause battery failure. It may be necessary to remove the batteries to check the electrolyte level. CAUTION: Be certain to wear latex gloves and eye protection when checking electrolyte levels. Be careful with wiring if removing.

Many times positive and negative wires are not marked or color coded. Take the time to mark each and every wire. I use masking tape and a sharpie. I also draw a picture of exactly how each battery is installed. I cannot tell you how many times I have had to straighten out someone’s mess from improper battery connections. (usually causes catastrophic component failure)

When replacing RV batteries it is important to install the proper type of battery. Campers should have “deep cycle” batteries. These batteries are constructed differently than a typical car starting battery. They are designed to be discharged and recharged. They typically have a higher reserve capacity (slower discharge) rate than a starting battery. Starting batteries should be used for the chassis battery of a Motor Home. Cranking amperage or cold cranking amperage is higher in a starting battery. This is important to start an engine, but is not important for the coach or camper. In some cases, the coach or camper batteries are used to start the gasoline powered generator. A deep cycle battery has plenty of amperage to start a generator.

There are several battery types that may be used in an RV.

• Flooded batteries have liquid electrolyte in them. They are typically the least expensive and work fairly well. Outside ventilation is required. Corrosion from electrolyte leakage is the most common problem.
• Sealed Gel batteries are another option. Costs are higher than flooded batteries. Maintenance is not required. Ventilation is not required. Corrosion is usually not a problem. Longevity is comparable to a flooded battery.
• AGM (absorbed glass mat) is another option. AGM batteries do not require ventilation and will not corrode. AGM batteries typically last longer than flooded or gel batteries. There is no maintenance. Discharge and recharge rates are better. Costs are higher.

Proper battery testing methods are important. Deep cycle batteries typically have shorter warranty periods than starting batteries. This is due to construction, design, and use.

I recommend testing the batteries at least once a year.  I test all mine before use in the spring.

Any battery MUST be properly charged before testing. Testing should be done by a professional. The electrolyte specific gravity must be checked to be certain the battery is fully charged before load testing. An automated electronic load tester may be used. I still use my reliable carbon pile tester. If your batteries test weak or bad, be certain to replace them. A weak battery will likely fail during extreme conditions, usually under heavy use or extreme temperatures. In applications with multiple batteries, be certain to replace all batteries at the same time.

Proper battery care during storage is important. Batteries should not be discharged. A discharged battery may freeze during cold weather. Be certain not to overcharge. Remember, leaving the power cord connected for extended periods can overcharge the batteries.

Many times RV’s have a parasitic drain. A parasitic drain is an item that continues to draw amperage when the RV is not in use. For this reason, I recommend disconnecting the batteries during storage. You can disconnect with a switch if your RV has it, or remove all battery cables from a post. I also recommend an automatic battery charger be used during storage. This type of charger can be left on the batteries continuously.

Above all, use common sense and always take proper safety measures.

M&G braking is not available for all vehicles. It is not a universal kit. Each unit fits a specific vehicle. Some vehicles do not have enough space available to fit the M&G unit.  If you have a question about availability please ask in the comments section at the bottom of this post.

To install an M&G unit you will need to remove the master cylinder from the brake power unit. Do not remove any brake lines. Be careful not to pull very hard on the brake lines. Do not bend sharply or kink any lines. You will need to gently move the brake lines enough to fit the M&G unit between the master cylinder and power brake unit. There is a rod included with the M&G that will need adjustment. The details are outlined in the instructions. Basically there needs to be a slight amount of “free play” between the brake pedal and master cylinder. This “free play” is necessary to be certain the brakes do not hang on or drag. You will need to install and remove the M&G several times to adjust and check the “free play”. Once the rod is adjusted and thread locker is applied, you can tighten the unit. Check the brake lines to be sure there are no sharp bends or kinks. Gently move the lines so any objects close can not touch the lines.

The coach connections, air line routing, and BreakAway are exactly the same as Blue Ox and Roadmaster’s air braking units. You can refer to that article for details.

M&G makes a system for coaches with hydraulic brakes. It incorporates an air pump in addition to the rest of the system. In my opinion: Because of the additional potential problems and costs involved, I do not recommend this system. There are other systems that work well with hydraulic coach brakes. Please refer to those articles for details.